Turn west on IN 56, and south on IN 146. A magnificent domed wonder, the restored and reopened West Baden Springs Hotel, looms ahead. Built in 1902 as a modern hotel with every convenience (bank, stock ticker, barber shop, beauty salon, spas, bicycle track, and more), it was a popular spot for the wealthy to enjoy drinking and soaking in the famed spring waters, and to gamble nearby. In the '20s, the town was also a place to imbibe forbidden alcohol. After the stock market crash, the hotel became a Jesuit seminary, then a private college, and fell into disrepair in the '80s. An Indiana industrialist saved it from the wrecking ball, and in 2006 it re-opened as a resort hotel once more. But you can tour this gorgeous structure, and reminisce about the days when gangsters and high society mingled. You'll learn a little local lore, such as provided by our guide Bob Lane, who was born in "19 and 24 on Flat Lick Farm." He recalls days when ladies would come by buggy to the spring on their farm to wash clothes.

Right next to West Baden Springs, the town of French Lick survived a bit more elegantly. Here you can take an old-fashioned train ride at the Indiana Railway Museum and enjoy fine dining at Beechwood Inn, a popular bed-and-breakfast in the former mansion of Charles Ballard, a one-time owner of the West Baden Springs Hotel.

Comfy rockers line the broad porch of the sprawling French Lick Springs Resort & Spa. The grand old dame, once the rival of West Baden Springs Hotel but now owned by the same people, features a host of activities, such as bowling, golf, horseback riding, tennis, swimming, and more, but a special treat awaits spa-goers. For just $40, you're immersed in a bubbling tub of odoriferous spring water. Don't be alarmed as the foam turns gray to black: it's just the heavy mineral content. Lie back and admire the décor of the recently redecorated spa. Back in the spa's heyday, the French Lick hotel bottled and sold the "Pluto water." West Baden Springs called theirs "Sprudel water," but the H2O was essentially the same. The expanded resort now includes a casino, conference center, and entertainment venue.

IN 145 continues south through Hoosier National Forest, past several state recreation areas that are busy with boaters and hikers in the warm months. Turn west on IN 64 and south on IN 162. Wondering what that big dome is perched high on the hill in the town of Ferdinand? It's home to Monastery Immaculate Conception, and free tours do not require religious instruction. Get some exercise descending the steps to the crypt, which isn't creepy or lined with bones. The church, which was begun in 1915 and completed in 1924, saw extensive renovations that were completed in 2005. The well-stocked gift shop features items handcrafted by the nuns.

No, the city employees did not forget to take down the boughs of holly and wreaths on the city hall in Santa Claus, a few miles south of Ferdinand. It's Christmas all year round here, where streets with names like Candy Castle Road and shops like the Holly Tree keep the Yule spirit glowing. The town is also home of Holiday World and Splashin' Safari, a theme and water park that has been voted the cleanest and friendliest park in the nation by Amusement Today. Santa Claus is on hand to greet the kids, both in person and as a statue at the front of the park. A few years ago, the park started offering unlimited free soft drinks to all guests, and the accolades started rolling in. Guests can also slather on free sunscreen between roller coaster rides and splashdowns on the log flume.