Beyond Niagara Falls
Exploring Lake Ontario's northern shore, from Buffalo, New York to Kingston, Ontario
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From downtown Buffalo whose buildings have been fashioned by some of America's most renowned architects to Kingston, a showcase of some of Canada's finest examples of 19th-century architecture, architectural gems abound. In between these and vibrant, multi-cultural Toronto, a bucolic countryside hugs Lake Ontario's north shore, inspiring artists in every medium. From hiking and fishing to superb antiquing and uncommon museums, this five-hour journey can easily occupy three or four days' of attention.
On the eastern end of Lake Erie, Buffalo grew rapidly as an industrial port after the opening of the Erie Canal. Exploring its historical districts offers a quick lesson in the life and times of Buffalo's industrialists and social elite. The Preservation Coalition of Erie Country offers walking tours, seasonally, but you can do it on your own, walking or driving. In the Allentown Historic District, homes range from Italianate villas to brightly painted Victorian gingerbread homes. Delaware Avenue, or Millionaire's Row, includes the Wilcox Mansion now the Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural National Historic Site where Roosevelt was hurriedly sworn in as president after President William McKinley's assassination and the two-block Delaware Avenue National Historic District (from North to Bryant Streets), which alone has nine elegant mansions.
A block over, locals hang out in the Elmwood Village, with its funky shops and restaurants. Places like the tiny Rust Belt Bookstore for true bibliophiles, Fowler's Chocolates for its mouthwatering, light-as-air chocolate sponge candies that provide bliss in a box for as low as $9.50 a half pound, and Spot Coffee, a Buffalo institution beloved for its homemade breads, aromatic coffees and bohemian decor. Their portabello mushroom sandwich for $7.95 is to die for.
The Darwin D. Martin House Complex (1903 to 1906) is Frank Lloyd Wright's most extensive Prairie house. Guided tours provide a unique perspective on this masterpiece that is seeing a thorough and ongoing restoration.
Before heading for the Peace Bridge, stop by Duff's. Locals swear by its meaty Buffalo chicken wings, coated in a red-hot cayenne pepper sauce ranked through seven grades, from plain to super hot. A substantial plate of ten wings, always accompanied by celery and a blue cheese dressing, goes for a reasonable $8.69.
Once in Canada, take the Queen Elizabeth Way (QEW) to Niagara Falls. Best ways to experience the Falls are either on board Maid of the Mist, a sturdy boat that ventures through churning waters and heavy spray to their base, or by descending through 125 feet of solid rock on a Journey Behind the Falls, to view from behind the primal force of Horseshoe Falls.
The Niagara Parkway follows the Niagara River to Niagara-on-the-Lake. The town was the site of many fierce battles during the War of 1812 and the Battle of Queenston Heights walking trail stops at every major scene of the pivotal 1812 confrontation. At the Mackenzie Heritage Printery in the nearby village of Queenston, kids are encouraged to have a go on the old presses at Canada's only operating printing museum.
Also on the Parkway, the Butterfly Conservatory is home to more than 2,000 tropical butterflies that fly around freely, foraging for nectar, searching for mates or landing on visitors' heads, within a rainforest-like environment.
Some of Canada's best wines are produced on the Niagara Peninsula, including icewine. It's made from handpicked grapes that are left to freeze on the vines, and pressed while still frozen. The intensely sweet juice is then fermented slowly. The region's icewine pioneer, Hillebrand Wineries, offers regular year-round tours, jazz and blues festivals in the summertime, and delicious wine country cuisine in the Vineyard Café.
Time permitting, take in a play at the Shaw Festival (April to November), which stages the marvelous works of George Bernard Shaw and his contemporaries.
Built in 1835 for Sir Allan Napier MacNab, one of Upper Canada's first premiers, Dundurn Castle in Hamilton has been restored to 1855. Costumed guides provide vivid descriptions of the MacNab family and their servants during tours of its 40 rooms. Children quickly learn what their duties would have been, 150 years ago, as junior scullery maids or gardeners.
More than 100 different ethnic groups live in Canada's largest city, making Toronto (pop. 2.5 million) one of the world's most ethnically diverse cities, where both locals and visitors can relish gelato in Little Italy, thali in Little India or dim sum in Chinatown.