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A little to the northeast is the friendly town of Pottsville, once the jewel of the anthracite fields that dominated the region. Almost as old as the coal mines in the area is the Yuengling Brewery, founded in 1829. This family-owned-and-operated business has survived and prospered through five generations to become America's oldest brewery, recognized by national and state historic registers in 1976. Don't let the grainy smell of malt and corn keep you from taking one of the historic factory's daily tours. The tour includes steps in the making, bottling, and shipping of their seven signature brews. Sneak a peek up inside the brew house that stained-glass ceiling is the original one installed in 1888. Lager, ale, porter, and other brews can be sampled in the tasting room at the end of the tour. There's non-alcoholic birch beer, too.
Another must-stop in Pottsville: Mootz Candies, known for their peanut roll. This gooey confection is a perennial Pennsylvania favorite and consists of a marshmallow-y nougat center dipped in chocolate and then rolled in nuts ($12.50 a pound). Another local favorite is the "Black Diamonds" coal candy ($7.95 a pound), hard licorice that comes in big chunks with a small hammer a one-of-a-kind item found only in the heart of anthracite country.
It's hard to watch the road when rolling into the picturesque town of Jim Thorpe, dubbed the "Switzerland of America." As the towering walls of evergreen trees fill the windshield's width, there's no doubt why the town earned this nickname. Originally founded as the borough of Mauch Chunk in 1850, the town was renamed in 1954 to honor a famous Native-American Olympic athlete.
Jim Thorpe is a haven for the outdoor recreationist, and it's hard to find better fishing, mountain biking, hiking, climbing, whitewater rafting, kayaking, sailing, and skiing anywhere else in the region. Blue Mountain Sports rents bikes and will gladly give you the scoop on the area's best riding. With dozens of trails and a wide range of difficulty levels, there's something for everyone, from nice flat family rides to skill-testing singletrack action in the woods. The Switchback Trail, once a gravity railroad used to transport the coal from the mines at Summit Hill to the canal at Mauch Chunk, offers great scenic views and some challenging technical stretches for those looking to really hit the mountain. For those not looking to work that hard, BMS offers a shuttle up to the top of the mountain so all you have to do is cruise down ($11 for shuttle, $22-27 for bike rental for the day includes a helmet, map, and a bottle of water).
Coal mines have long dotted the region, and the history of them is not all peaceful. The Old Jail Museum was where the famous Molly Maguires a precursor group to modern-day labor unions were once held and hanged. Tours of the original jail, first built in 1871 and in operation until 1995, give a good look at the gallows, the library, the spooky dungeon, and tell the story of the Molly Maguires and the legend of the mysterious handprint in Cell 17.
Continue east to the famed Pocono Mountains area. Stroudsburg, located at the confluence of the Pocono, McMichaels, and Brodhead creeks, has a surprisingly swinging arts scene with some of the finest shops, galleries, and performers in the region. Local art covers the walls of more than a dozen art galleries here, but works are also prevalent in shops, salons, and restaurants.
Just around the corner off Main Street, stop in Steve and Dawn Linden's shop Visual Mixology for some of the coolest creative décor around. Their fantasy shop seeks to "synthesize fine and decorative arts into original creations for the home," which translates into whimsically embellished mirrors ($65-425), unique light catchers ($125-265), hand-painted wooden bowls ($85-350), intricate switch plates ($20-25), and much, much more. Impressed? Make arrangements to tour the artists' home studio to catch their latest works-in-progress.
Several miles down the road, in the tiny town of Delaware Water Gap is the the Deer Head Inn, home of jazz in the Poconos for more than 50 years. The brown Appalachian Trail sign across the street marks this restaurant and inn. The Deer Head has been a long-time favorite of locals and Appalachian trailers alike. The laid-back atmosphere, intimate setup, and enthusiastic clientele draws many of the same great jazz musicians heard in New York City, such as Jay Leonhart and DAvid "Fathead" Newman, but all at non-New York prices. After a few days of non-stop fun and adventure on the road, there's nothing like a stress-free evening of great music-making and good food to relax and unwind.
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