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Southern Charm - Rock Hill to Greenwood, South Carolina

Story and photos by: Erin Vorhies

Tucked neatly between the Appalachian Mountains and the Atlantic Ocean is humble Upcountry South Carolina. Revolutionary War and Civil War battlefields engage generations of history enthusiasts, while forests, rivers, and steep waterfalls create a natural playground. Beginning in Rock Hill, this drive along rolling country roads heads north to follow the Cherokee Foothills National Scenic Highway (SC 11), then continues south to Abbeville and Greenwood. The scenery and adventure opportunities abound amid the Deep South’s truest charms: history and hospitality.

Best known: Carowinds amusement park in Charlotte; Chattooga River (film site for Deliverance); Cowpens National Battlefield in Gaffney; Clemson University in Clemson.

Editor's Picks

Old Town Bistro

If it weren’t for the proudly displayed historical marker on the sidewalk outside the Old Town Bistro, pedestrians in the Rock Hill might not realize they were passing by the historic site of the 1961 “Friendship Nine” civil rights protest. Then a McCrory’s 5-10-25 cent Variety Store, it was where nine African American men walked in, ordered hamburgers, and were told to leave. They refused, were arrested, and originated the “jail, no bail” chant on their way out. The Old Town Bistro keeps the memory alive with the original barstools in place with commemorative plaques on the seatbacks. The diner’s menu features American and Italian choices with an emphasis on traditional Southern-style cooking. A plate of the famous broasted chicken comes with choice of two sides (selections include fried okra, fried squash, and pickled beets) and costs less than $8.



135 E. Main St.
Rock Hill, SC 29730
(803) 327-9222
www.rholdtownbistro.com

Historic Brattonsville

Situated right on the Great Wagon Road—the main colonial settlement thoroughfare from Pennsylvania to Georgia—is the former plantation of Col. William Bratton. Once a Revolutionary War battle site and estate for Bratton’s eight children and twelve slaves, Brattonsville is now one of the largest living-history sites in the nation. Legendary costumed interpreter Kitty Wilson Evans enlightens visitors about time-period realities with her role as Kessie, an 18th-century slave. She fondly recalls Kessie’s favorite toy, a handmade topsy-turvy doll that was pink on one side and brown on the other so slaves could play with the brown side when their master wasn’t around. Replicas of the doll are available in the gift shop ($16-$40). In addition to living-history events and tours, Brattonsville maintains an eight-and-a-half mile network of hiking/mountain bike trails, including a battlefield trail and a nature trail. Horses are allowed on the trails once a month.

1444 Brattonsville Rd.
McConnells, SC 29726
(803) 684-2327
www.chmuseums.org

Upcountry History Museum

Amid a region filled with historic buildings and battlefields, the Upcountry History Museum expands the story. Interactive exhibits, sound and light shows, and multimedia presentations bring to life more than three centuries of the Upcountry’s past. The institution covers the obvious—early settlers, wars, and textiles—but it also touches on the lesser known: Richard Pearis, who set up the first gristmill in Greenville; and Shoeless Joe Jackson, a local mill worker whose position on a mill owner’s baseball team eventually led to his famed Major League Baseball career. Children will enjoy Greenville’s most popular photo-op with the pigs in the main lobby before heading upstairs to test their skills as textile doffers, racing against a clock to switch out full bobbins with empty ones. A souvenir pig mascot is available in the gift shop for $5, along with local books, jewelry, and art.


540 Buncombe St.
Greenville, SC
29601
(864) 467-3100
www.upcountryhistory.org

Table Rock State Park

Developed as a Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) project, Table Rock State Park is a South Carolina icon of both history and recreation. With no televisions, phones, or wireless signals, the park offers a reprieve from modern luxuries and an uninterrupted experience in nature. In the deep, densely forested foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, visitors enjoy swimming, canoeing and paddle boating, fishing, and hiking a variety of trails, including to the top of Table Rock Mountain. The cabins are well maintained in spite of their age and are available to rent for two or more nights ($60-$119 per night). Campsites also are available, ranging from $10 per night to upwards of $25 per night. The park’s lodge hosts monthly events such as Blue Grass Music on the Mountain and is available for rental for special events such as weddings and meetings.

158 E. Ellison Ln.
Pickens, SC
29671
(864) 878-9813
www.southcarolinaparks.com

Kudzu Kabin Designs

As the unruly Japanese-import kudzu continues to beleaguer the south, Native American and local fiber artist Nancy Basket finds practical use for each part of the plant. She began her kudzu enterprise in 1989, and today makes a variety of products, including kudzu soap from the roots, jelly from the blossoms, baskets from the vines, and paper art from the leaves. Visitors can stop at her gallery and home to create their own baskets, learn the paper-making process, and choose from dozens of prints, art cards, baskets, soaps, and jellies in her shop. Most items sell for around $5-$20 (excluding the wall art). Ms. Basket also will show visitors around her studio, a 100-year-old barn with bales of kudzu serving as the walls and insulation, known to be the only kudzu-bale building in the world.

1105 E. Main St.
Walhalla, SC
29691
(864) 718-8864
www.nancybasket.com

Park Seed Co.

The headquarters campus of the Park Seed Co. features nine acres filled with more than 48,000 flowers, vegetables, shrubs, and trees. It’s a garden immersion experience that horticulture enthusiasts simply can’t get from the company’s mail-order seed catalog (a tradition since 1868). Visitors can tour the trial gardens, where more than 2,000 new varieties are tested every year; the Rose Garden, where commemorative rose breeds are created to honor celebrities like Princess Diana, Pope John Paul II, and First Ladies; and the container display garden, which focuses on potted plants. The on-site Garden Center sells everything from the company’s well-known seeds to unusual plants and bulbs, as well as unique and useful gardening accessories. If your thumb isn’t as green as you’d like, pick up a seed-starting system for $20. The idiot-proof product uses biosponge technology to prevent over-watering and bacteria growth.


3507 Cokesbury Road
Hodges, SC
29653
(864) 223-8555
www.parkseed.com

More Great Stops

Sanders Farm Stand

Local farmer and author of several books, including Clover and Dori Sanders’ Country Cooking, Ms. Dori Sanders has quickly built a reputation as “America’s Favorite Peach Farmer.” She was raised on one of the oldest African-American-owned farms in South Carolina, and she employs her intrinsic skills to continue achieving farming success today. Her stand sells a variety of produce, including peaches, corn, okra, peas, potatoes, and watermelon. Although the assortment is delightful, the real treasure is listening to Dori share with guests her stories about farming, reading, writing, and her legendary storytelling rock.






2275 Filbert Hwy.
Filbert, SC
29745
(803) 684-9156
www.dorisanders.com

Carolina Foothills Artisan Center

The Carolina Foothills Artisan Center opened its doors a mere eight years ago, but it already has had a profound influence in the revitalization of downtown Chesnee. Featuring approximately 100 artists from North and South Carolina, the gallery draws art enthusiasts and casual shoppers from all over the region. Some of the bestsellers include handmade porcelain coasters with the state palmetto symbol by Rob Gentry ($6), gourd angels by Debbie Wilson ($20), and turned-wood compasses by David Bowers ($10). Charlie Hind of Honea Path, S.C., sells the popular ocarinas, which are handcrafted wooden flutes that come with finger charts for learning to play ($34-$75).

124 W. Cherokee St.
Chesnee, SC
29323
(864) 461-3050
www.cfac.us

Hagood Mill

At Hagood Mill, a working water-powered gristmill (ca. 1845) grinds meal and grits just as it did more than 150 years ago. It was run by generations of Hagoods until 1966, and in 1973 the Pickens County Cultural Commission assumed control of the landmark. Today a minimal staff and energetic group of volunteers keep the mill running and manage the store. Two-pound bags of cornmeal, grits, and wheat sell for $2-$4 each. Tours of the mill are available; also onsite are walking trails, a cotton ginning operation, and a recently discovered 30-foot-long rock with Native American petroglyph carvings thought to be thousands of years old.






Pickens County Cultural Commission
307 Johnson St.
Pickens, SC
29671
(864) 898-2936
www.co.pickens.sc.us/culturalcommission/

Split Creek Farm

One of the only farmsteads in the U.S. to produce milk and process cheese on site, Split Creek Farm houses seven breeds of dairy goat and runs a 150-gallon-vat operation that produces 750 pounds of cheese per week. The company advocates the health benefits of goat milk; per ounce, it contains almost a third of the calories but twice the protein and half the fat of cow milk. Visitors are encouraged to tour the goat farm and studio, and check out the farm shops (open daily). The farm produces and sells a variety of goat milk products, including its award-winning cheese products, as well as milk, yogurt, fudge, and soap, all priced between $3.50 and $9.






3806 Centerville Rd.
Anderson, SC
29625
(864) 287-3921
www.splitcreek.com

Hearthside Manor

Situated just off the town square in a 19th-century Victorian inn, Hearthside Manor embodies quintessential Southern hospitality. A shaded wraparound porch entices guests to relax in its rocking chairs. Wooded framework detail in the foyer greets them once inside. Innkeepers Richard and Lanie Reeder ensure the common kitchenette remains stocked with complimentary food and drinks, and provide a wide array of amenities for guests, including candy dishes at every turn, a DVD collection for late-night movie watching, and books, magazines, and board games for relaxing in the second-floor common area.


1304 N. Main St.
Abbeville, SC
29620
(864) 366-6555
www.hearthsidemanorbedandbreakfast.com

Even More Stops

Kings Mountain National Military Park

One way to understand the differing perspectives of Revolutionary War Patriots and Loyalists is to walk the land where they battled each other in October 1780. The Battle of Kings Mountain ended in triumph for the Patriots, their first victory since the British invasion five months earlier. A trip to the historic site starts at the Visitor Center with introductory film and exhibits explaining the battle. From there, the 1.5-mile Battlefield Trail guides hikers along the ridge and past memorials honoring battle leaders. Additional hiking trails link to adjacent Kings Mountain State Park, which offers camping, boat rentals, and a living-history farm.

2625 Park Road
Blacksburg, SC
29702
(864) 936-7921
www.nps.gov/kimo

Bantam Chef Restaurant

This ‘50s-style diner is more than a typical burger joint: it’s one of the quirkiest places to grab a quick bite in all of Upcountry. With paraphernalia like a restored Studebaker, an old-fashioned jukebox, and life-size cutouts of Elvis Presley and Marilyn Monroe stealing the attention, you might not even remember you’re actually there for the juicy burger and basket of fries. The family-owned-and-operated spot is a local favorite; the owners hand out coffee for 25 cents but wouldn’t deny a cup to anyone short on change.








418 South Alabama Ave.
Chesnee, SC
29323
(864) 461-8403

The Lazy Goat

Overlooking the slow-rolling Reedy River, The Lazy Goat has but one rule: “time well wasted.” The casual, slow atmosphere is as Mediterranean as its menu, which features spiced hummus, roasted branzini, and a Lazy Greek Salad. Make sure at least one person in your party chooses the Cob Corn Lollipops for a side dish. Smothered in cheese and sticking out of a ceramic fish, they’re almost too adorable to eat. Insider tip: If you sit down in the one blue chair at your table, you receive The Blue Chair honor—you lead the table in a toast, story, or friendly conversation.



170 River Place
Greenville, SC
29601
(864) 679-5299
www.thelazygoat.com

Oconee Heritage Center

There is more history packed into the Oconee Heritage Museum than one might imagine is possible. Curator Nick Gambrell makes efficient use of the one-room former tobacco warehouse by guiding visitors through seven eras of Oconee County history and artifacts with color-coordinated displays. Among the most popular treasures are two intact, dugout wooden canoes found in nearby rivers and thought to date back to about 1760. Other interesting novelties include an 1850s-era general store and a walk-in replica of the Stumphouse Tunnel (visit the real tunnel six miles north of Walhalla). The center maintains limited hours four days a week and accepts admission by appointment as well.


123 Brown’s Square Dr.
Walhalla, SC
29691
(864) 638-2224
www.oconeeheritagecenter.org

Anderson County Museum

A handmade, miniature-scale county fair exhibit greets visitors to this museum with the thrill of carnival rides, fair tents, and trains. Locals stand for hours marveling over the accuracy of the detail; even the rides turn. A bright red hot air balloon across the room catches the eye and tells the history of ballooning in the region. A World War II suitcase displays the belongings of a local citizen named William Joseph Brown, including his wedding band, a folded flag never removed from its paper-bag wrapping, and the telegram sent to his family announcing his death. A stop in the gift shop to view the historic cash register completes the walk through Anderson County’s past.






202 E. Greenville St.
Anderson, SC
29624
(864) 260-4737
www.andersoncountysc.org/web/Museum_00.asp