While there were many other things to see and do in Victoria, including the gorgeous flowers of the Butchart Gardens, we were overdue to start our trek north. There were loads of things we didn't have time to catch in Victoria: Goldstream Park, where seagulls and eagles soar; Craigdarroch Castle, a 39-room mansion; the shops of Chinatown; and the delights of some great restaurants the Blue Crab Bar & Grill, serving delicious salmon at reasonable prices, and more downscale places like Swans, with its Buckerfield burgers, or Nautical Nelly's fish and chips. A friend recommended lunch or dinner at the Malahat Mountain Inn, a four-star restaurant with gorgeous views. It's located on the Malahat Highway just outside Victoria. It's best to spend the day in Victoria, then head out to the Malahat Mountain Inn for dinner, arriving before sunset. Specials may include local catch, especially salmon and cod. Prize for the "looks ugly but tastes delicious" goes to the gooseneck barnacle appetizer in white wine sauce.
On the second day, we continued our trek up Highway 1. Our first stop was Duncan and the Quw'utsun' Cultural and Conference Centre on the banks of the Cowichan River. Here, docents showed us the life of the native Canadian people from Vancouver Island. The boys enjoyed another opportunity to watch totems carved, and how fish is smoked. Original hand-knit Cowichan sweaters on sale in the gallery run about CN$250. The Riverwalk Café also features native cuisine, with various salmon dishes, venison, and even fish 'n chips. Meals range from CN$7-19.
A short drive north, the town of Chemainus is practically an art gallery in itself. Buildings are covered with murals, and the place is a virtual bus jam in the summer with crowds gawking at the artwork. The murals began as a revitalization project in 1982 with five murals now there are more than three dozen to behold. Even kids can enjoy some drive-by art.
There are dozens of little burgs and beaches to explore all the way up the coast to Parksville, depending on the amount of time a traveler has. In the city of Nanaimo there's the Bastion, built in 1853, which is the center for a noon cannon firing. Just outside town is WildZone Elements Park, for bungee jumping enthusiasts. We headed farther north to Qualicum Beach, to watch the tide and search for shells. While walking along the sand, a jet of water spurted up by my foot. A local fellow walking nearby explained it was a geoduck, pronounced "gooey duck," a type of large clam with a long neck that digs deeper into the sand as it detects vibrations above. The boys immediate began digging, trying to catch the elusive creatures. Fortunately, they were not successful.
We spent the night at a timeshare condo resort in Craig Bay, and again the beach offered a wealth of tiny creatures to discover, hiding among the rocks. We set out in the resort's rowboats, exploring the shore and watching the fish darting beneath us.
Finally it was time to head back south to Parksville and then straight west on Highway 4. First stop: The Village of Coombs' Old Country Market, where goats graze on the grass roof. That fact alone would qualify this quirky spot as "Best of the Road," but there's much more to enjoy inside the shop. Bric-a-brac and stuff from around the world tempt shoppers. As one friend said, "You can buy wooden elephants made in Africa, though I don't know why someone would want to buy that here." The deli serves ice cream and lets you build sandwiches so big that "you'll get stretch marks on your mouth." Oh my! In summer, a local rodeo proves very entertaining fare.
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