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Volcanic Legacy - Crater Lake, Oregon, to Mt. Shasta, California

Story and photos by: Laurie D. Borman

Poor Lewis and Clark. They culminated their 1804 cross-country trek in a miserable nonstop rainy season at Ft. Clatsop, in the far northernwestern corner of Oregon. If they'd only come down to south-central Oregon, starting just past present-day Eugene, they would have found abundant wildlife and rivers, spied the beautiful blue of Crater Lake, seen amazing formations in Oregon Caves just west of today's Medford. Further south, in California, they would have walked the eerie landscape that is now Lava Beds National Monument and hiked the majestic Shasta Cascade Mountains. Today's visitor can circle back up into Oregon for stops at wineries, cheese factories, and boutique chocolate producers along with gourmet restaurants in the Medford/Ashland area. Adventurous types go for the river rafting and jetboating (in Grants Pass), kayaking and canoeing wilderness trails, bicycling rail trails, a treehouse resort or even a railroad car motel. It's truly an explorer's paradise.

Best known: Crater Lake; Lava Beds National Park; Mt. Shasta; Ashland Shakespeare Festival in Ashland.

Editor's Picks

Happy Trails Cowboy Campground

Rare is the child who hasn't asked for his or her own horse. But it's difficult to take a pony on vacation, except at the Happy Trails Cowboy Campground. Here, horses, people, and even the family dog are welcome. (And owner Bob Lafferty prefers dogs off-leash, as they tend to be less aggressive.) If you never got that pony, or don't have an RV, don't worry. Bob will set you up with a friendly steed for a personal trail ride into the adjacent Winema National Forest, hustle up a delicious steak dinner by the fire, and make up a comfy bed in a platform tent for the night.

46925 Hwy. 97 North
Chiloquin OR
97624
(541) 783-3559
www.happytrailscowboycampground.com

Nibbley's Cafe

Don't let the strip mall location fool you: you'll find friendly waitresses and tasty, creative dishes for breakfast or lunch at Nibbley's Cafe. The house specialty is oatcakes, a substantial pancake that can be topped with marionberries (in season), blueberries, pecans, or bananas. Every party should be required to order them and share samples. The daily specials might include local salmon omelettes, salads, and wraps, accompanied by fresh baked oat bread, wheat bread or other bakery offerings. Waitstaff stop frequently to ensure your coffee cup is full, too.

2650 Washburn Way, Ste. 120
Klamath Falls, OR
97601
(541) 883-2314

Upper Klamath National Wildlife Refuge canoe trail

The Klamath Basin National Wildlife Refuge Complex splits into an upper area in Oregon and a lower area in California, with canoe trails at both. Rent a kayak or canoe at The Ledge in Klamath Falls (www.yetislair.com) or from Rocky Point Resort in summer, then paddle through marsh and open water. Wildlife abounds, with the opportunity to see bald eagles fishing, white pelicans and osprey nesting, and other waterfowl. The refuge website features a map of the trail.

Rocky Point Resort
28121 Rocky Point Rd.
Klamath Falls, OR
97601
(530) 667-2231
www.fws.gov/klamathbasinrefuges/

Railroad Park Resort and RV Campground

Even if you're not a train buff, you have to smile at the colorful train cars corralled around the swimming pool at this unique resort. Each car or caboose is a self-contained motel unit complete with two double beds, air conditioning, bathrooms and parking right outside the door. Rooms are surprisingly comfortable, quiet, and stable, securely bolted to the tracks. The Shasta Cascades serve as a gorgeous natural backdrop for the resort. The RV Campground features an old-time popular "swimming hole" and sandy beach. The gift shop offers train-themed merchandise and toys galore, such as a lamp with a Union Pacific model train running along the base for $139 and a $9 wooden train whistle.

Pets are welcome.

100 Railroad Park Rd.
Dunsmuir, CA
96025
(530) 235-4440
www.rrpark.com

Harry & David Country Village and tour

There's something about the climate here that pears love. That is why, after more than 75 years, Harry & David still sells more pears than any other delicious fruit or candy in their vast catalog complex. The country village is a retail venue (with lots of in-store specials) to buy fresh produce or start a tour of the production facility. The tour costs $5, redeemable at the store if you purchase $40 worth of merchandise. You'll be taken past rows of chocolate dippers (Harry & David calls the process "enrobing"), and fruit and basket packers. If you need some cheese to go with those pears, check out Rogue Creamery's store down the road in Central Point.

And yes, the pears really do grow upside down in the orchard as pictured here!

1314 Center Dr.
Medford, OR
97501
(877) 322-8000
www.harryanddavid.com/gifts/store/view____tours.html

Hellgate Jetboat Excursions

It doesn't take athletic skill to sit in a jetboat and ride the wild and scenic Rogue River, but it sure feels adventurous. The boat's captain revs up the motor of the hydro-jet and roars downstream. This fast pace slows only for guests to check out the osprey nests, beaver dams, and other wildlife along the route. If another boat is nearby, the two captains might enact a chase scene through rapids and spin 360 degrees a few times just for screams. Excursions range from two-hour blasts to five-hour power rides ($37 to $62 for adults). There are even lunch and dinner cruises for those who want to split up their ride with a meal.

966 SW 6th St.
Grants Pass, OR
97526
(800) 648-4874
www.hellgate.com

More Great Stops

Hi-Lo Cafe

A detour off Interstate 5 between California and Oregon, the Hi-Lo Cafe in Weed looks like a simple 50s diner. And for hordes of hungry truckers, it satisfies. For the casual tourist, it's worth the stop for homemade dessert--nearly a dozen pies are offered every day, as well as cobblers, cookies, and other pastries. Open from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m., the cafe serves breakfast, lunch, dinner with a variety of omelettes, salads, sandwiches, and burgers. A soup-and-salad bar with fresh fruit is available during lunch and dinner.

88 S. Weed Blvd.
Weed, California
96904
(530) 938-2904
www.sisdevco.com/cafe.html

Sundial Bridge at Turtle Bay

The Santiago Calatrava-designed Sundial Bridge spans the Sacramento River in Redding. Designed for pedestrian use, it links the Turtle Bay Exploration Park campus, from the McConnell Arboretum and Botanical Gardens on the north shore, to the museum and forest camp on the south shore. The unique design incorporates a 217-foot spire that acts as a sundial. Calatrava has said that it reminds him of a bird in flight. The bridge is open from 6 a.m. to midnight, and there is no charge to walk across its opaque aqua glass floor. The Sundial Bridge is also part of Redding’s nationally-recognized trail system.

1335 Arboretum Drive
Redding, California
96001
(530) 242-3143
www.turtlebay.org/att_sundialBridge.php

Oregon Caves National Monument Big Tree Loop Trail

A long and winding highway leads up to Oregon Caves National Monument. Most visitors take the guided cave tour, which features amazing formations of stalactites, stalagmites, curtains, and more. For those with extra energy, a two- to three-hour hike with a more than 1,000-ft. elevation gain along the Big Tree Loop trail leads to the widest Douglas fir in the state of Oregon. Views of the Siskiyou mountains surrounding the park make the trek rewarding. Along the trail you may see the Oregon Caves forest snail, a creature that lives only in or near the monument and feasts upon the calcite-rich marble, growing a beautiful striped shell.

19000 Caves Highway
Cave Junction, Oregon
97523
(541) 592-2100
www.nps.gov/orca

Dragonfly Café and Gardens

Chef Neil Clooney--named Oregon's best chef in 2008--creates Latin and Asian fusion dishes daily at the Dragonfly Café. Inspired dishes range from coconut French toast and avocado scramble for breakfast to ahi tuna plates and big bowls of udon noodles, and Portobello mushrooms and peanut sauce for dinner. Salads are an art form, made with interesting mixes such as crisp greens, orange and crispy wontons, and a zesty citrus dressing, or mixed greens, tomatoes, and a pesto, olive, and balsamic vinegar dressing. Outdoor seating is available in a shaded patio garden.

241 Hargadine St.
Ashland, Oregon
97520
(541) 488-4855
www.dragonflyashland.com

Even More Stops

The Jacksonville Inn

In the center of the National Historic Landmark town of Jacksonville, the Jacksonville Inn offers fine dining at its dinner house featuring fresh seafood and steaks and an extensive wine list. Service is available indoors or on the patio, and the restaurant provides picnic baskets for guests attending the summer Peter Britt Festival. On the main level, the wine shop collection includes more than 2,000 wine selections and wine accessories for sale. Eight bed-and-breakfast rooms with private baths are available on the top floor. These rooms and four nearby guest cottages (including a lavish Honeymoon Cottage) are individually furnished with Western-theme antiques.

175 E. California St.
Jacksonville, Oregon
97530
(541) 899-1900
www.jacksonvilleinn.com

Piemont Restaurant

An old-fashioned Italian-American supper club, the Piemont Restaurant has been serving family-style meals for more than 50 years. House specialties include homemade ravioli, spaghetti and meat balls, and chicken or steak dishes. Meals come complete with fresh made-from-scratch soup, a relish plate with onions, olives and lettuce, entrée, and choice of ice cream for dessert. The restaurant décor could have been the inspiration for the Buca di Beppo chain, filled with '50s-era lounge furniture and bric-a-brac, such as Chianti bottles and plastic grapes. Friendly waitstaff will let you sample all the sauces before you order.

1200 S. Mount Shasta Blvd
Mt. Shasta, California
96067
(530) 926-2402

Bridge House Bed and Breakfast

Four spacious guest rooms in an historic cottage home overlook the Sacramento River. Two rooms with king-size beds feature "Bain Ultra" thermal massage tubs and spa robes. Two rooms with queen size beds have large tiled baths and spa robes. All rooms offer flat-screen TV, luxury cotton linens, and wireless Internet. Room rates include a gourmet buffet breakfast with savory entrée, fresh baked pastries, fruit, granola, yogurt, tea and coffee. Located on Riverside Drive in downtown Redding, the Bridge House Bed and Breakfast is a few blocks from the courthouse and other businesses and shops, but more importantly, there's access to the 13-mile Sacramento River Trail across the street.

1455 Riverside Dr.
Redding, California
(530) 247-7177
www.reddingbridgehouse.com

Rogue Creamery Store

Rogue Creamery has been making cheddar cheese since the 1930s. The company began making blue cheese in 1957, and the varieties of blues continue to rank among customer favorites. The cheese shop at Rogue Creamery offers a wide selection of blue cheeses: Oregon Blue, Smokey Blue, Crater Lake Blue, and other Rogue specialties, like Oregonzola. The cheese is made from hormone- and antibiotic-free milk from grass-fed cows. While you cannot actually tour the creamery, employees will demonstrate how the cheese is made, and you can watch some of the production from behind a glass window in the store. Because demonstrations aren't available every day, a call ahead to get the schedule is advised.




311 N. Front St.
Central Point, Oregon
97502
(541) 665-1155
www.roguecreamery.com

Lillie Belle Farms

Chocolate lovers will want to stop at Lillie Belle Farms and sample the elegant offerings at this custom chocolate shop. Artisan chocolates are handmade from primarily organic ingredients. Unusual samplings include chocolate with local lavender, and fresh fruits such as strawberries, raspberries, and marionberries. Each piece is a work of art: dark ganache with white paisley design, marzipan fig or blue cheese and chocolate balls wrapped in blue colored foil. Don't miss the four flavors of organic toffee: pistachio, cocoa nib, macadamia nut, and spicy pecan. Owner and chocolatier Jeff Shepherd grows the fruits for the confections on his farm in the nearby Applegate Valley.

211 N. Front St.
Central Point, Oregon
97502
(541) 664-2815
www.lilliebellefarms.com

Ashland Springs Hotel

Built in 1925, the Ashland Springs Hotel offers boutique rooms with full-service hotel amenities. The hotel is on the National Register of Historic Places and is one of the Historic Hotels of America. Seventy plush guest rooms, decorated in soft peach tones and framed botanic prints, overlook Grizzly Peak and the town of Ashland. Amenities include flat-screen TVs with cable, bathrobes, and mini refrigerators. Locally grown lavender in a tea bath sachet is left on guest pillows. Room rates include continental breakfast and free parking.

212 East Main St.
Ashland, Oregon
97520
(541) 488-1700
www.ashlandspringshotel.com