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Arkansas Post National Memorial
Address: 1741 Old Post Road Gillett, AR 72055 Phone: 870-548-2207 Fax: 870-548-2431
Overview. In 1686, Henri de Tonti established a trading post known as Poste de Arkansea at the Quapaw village of Osotuoy. It was the first semipermanent French settlement in the lower Mississippi River Valley. The establishment of the post was the first step in a long struggle between France, Spain, and England over the interior of the North American continent. Because of its strategic location near the confluence of the Arkansas and Mississippi Rivers, Arkansas Post was the location of French and later Spanish forts. In 1783, the Colbert Incident, the only war skirmishes occurring in Arkansas, occurred at Arkansas Post. By 1819, the post was a thriving river port important enough to be selected the capital of the Arkansas Territory. In 1862, Confederate troops constructed an earthen fortification known as Fort Hindman. By January 1863, however, Union troops had destroyed the fort and the adjacent river port town, ensuring control of the Arkansas River. Located on a peninsula bordered by the Arkansas River and two backwaters, the site now offers excellent fishing and wildlife-watching opportunities. What to see and do. Open from 8 AM until dark, this 389-acre site is ideal for day trips. Access the park by turning onto Arkansas State Road 169 from US 165, which is the Great River Road running from "Canada to Gulf" through ten states bordering the Mississippi River. In the visitor center, open from 8 AM to 5 PM, you'll find a bookstore, a museum, and an auditorium showing a 14-minute movie. After you look through the museum's exhibits on the town's history, present-day Arkansas, the fur trade, and the Great River Road, you can head outside to the nature trails, and the town remnants. These include a well, cistern, and 50 yards of Confederate defense earthworks. A self-guided tour takes you along 2.5 miles of paved trail connecting the town site, nature trail, and wayside exhibits. An additional nature trail (unpaved) has been constructed along a picturesque bayou. Children ages 7 to 12 enjoy a Junior Ranger program. When on the trails, look for a wide variety of Southeastern forest animals: white-tailed deer, armadillos, raccoons, opossums, and squirrels. Resident bald eagles are frequent visitors. You'll also notice the changing landscape. The peninsula contains several different habitats such as bottomland hardwood forest, open prairie, and wetlands. Because the site is located on the Mississippi Flyway, you should be able to spot many migratory species of birds in spring and fall. The surrounding waterways support several species of amphibians and reptiles, including American alligators. Bass, catfish, and crappie lure avid anglers to the area. An Arkansas fishing license is required. Hunting is not permitted in park lands. Wheelchairs are available. Leashed pets are permitted.
Buffalo National River
Address: 402 N Walnut Suite 136 Harrison, AR 72601 Phone: 870-741-5443 or 870-439-2502 Fax: 870-741-7286
Overview. The Buffalo River rises high in the Boston Mountains, where it begins a 150-mile journey east to its confluence with the White River. Along the way, it drops almost 2,000 feet through limestone bluffs, some as high as 440 feet, and stands of willow and sycamore. The whitewater of the upper river gives way to the lower river's serene, leisurely flow where boaters can explore a landscape of caves, waterfalls, and springs. This pristine stream is prime habitat for smallmouth bass and over 60 additional freshwater species. Due to the Ozark's wide diversity of wildlife, white-tailed deer and raccoon share the park with armadillos and scorpions. A recently re-introduced elk herd appears to be thriving along the banks of the upper river. Archaeologists have found evidence of habitation along the Buffalo that dates back 10,000 years. More recently, pioneers built cabins along the banks, and historic farms are still being worked in the area. The National Park Service protects the lower 135 miles of the river and maintains three separate wilderness areas along its banks: the Upper and Lower Buffalo Wilderness Areas at the western and eastern ends of the park, and the Ponca Wilderness Area between Ponca and Kyles Landing. What to see and do. Floating the Buffalo is the most popular activity along the river, and it goes on year round. Most of the upper river's Class I and II rapids are only open in late winter and during the spring, when runoff is at its height. The lower river provides a leisurely float for canoe, tube, or flat-bottomed johnboat any time of the year, but you'll probably be most comfortable making the trip during the summer. The river is full of pools just perfect for swimming, but be aware that there are no lifeguards posted anywhere along the banks and you should never swim alone. Be alert for high water; the river can rise quickly and quietly. Anglers won't be disappointed dipping their lines into the Buffalo. It is a blue-ribbon smallmouth bass stream, but hosts a great many other species as well, including catfish, sunfish, goggle-eye, largemouth and spotted bass. A valid state fishing license is required and all state and National Park Service regulations and limits must be observed. In addition to fishing from the bank, many anglers swear by float fishing from johnboats along the lower stretch of the river. Hunting in season and with a valid state permit is allowed as long as National Park Service regulations are observed. Hikers should be careful in the woods and dress colorfully, especially during fall deer season and spring turkey season. There are over 100 miles of hiking trails in the park, ranging in difficulty from short self-guided nature hikes to longer, more strenuous mountain treks. The Buffalo River Trail follows the river for 37 miles within the upper and middle river sections. Several trails are open to horses, and designated campgrounds allow horses at the site. Contact a ranger or inquire at one of the visitor centers for specific details. Fourteen campgrounds are located in the park. Only one, Lost Valley, does not lie along the river. All are available on a first-come, first-served basis. The two most developed sites, Buffalo Point and Tyler Bend, charge a nightly fee and offer additional amenities between May and October. A few cabins and a seasonal restaurant are available from a concessionaire at Buffalo Point. Concessionaires along the river can also arrange float trips from a half-day to ten days in duration. Float fishing trips can also be arranged. Visitor centers are located at several points along the river and include park headquarters in Harrison, open on weekdays, year round. Tyler Bend Visitor Center is the main information facility in the park proper and is open daily, year round. It is located 11 miles north of Marshall. Pruitt Ranger Station, near Jasper, is open daily between Memorial Day and Labor Day, and observes a limited schedule during the spring. There are two ranger stations at Buffalo Point; the Upper Station is open year round and the Campground Station is open from Memorial Day to Labor Day. All facilities are open from 8 AM to 4:30 PM. Rangers guide hikes and float trips during the summer, and offer evening campground programs then, as well. Summer visitors can partake in Ozark craft and music demonstrations. All schedules are available at visitor centers and ranger stations.
Fort Smith National Historic Site
PO BOX 1406 Third St & Rogers Ave Fort Smith, AR 72901 Phone: 501-783-3961 Fax: 501-783-5307
Overview. Located at the confluence of the Arkansas and Poteau rivers on the Oklahoma border, this site was once a far western outpost of the United States. In 1817 a fort was established to mediate Native American disputes and protect the few settlers in the area. In the rough and tumble years that followed, the fort was briefly abandoned and rebuilt once. Out there on the far edge of what people considered civilization, shady characters accompanied westward-bound settlers, causing trouble among white and Native American people alike. The fort served as a supply depot for military posts in Indian Territory through the turbulent antebellum years and the Civil War. In 1872 the site was transformed from fort to court. Four years later, Judge Isaac C. Parker arrived to clean up rampant corruption. For 21 years he imposed strict sentences and gradually tamed the countryside. After his death in 1896, he was buried at the National Cemetery in Fort Smith. Today this 35-acre site preserves the remains of two fort buildings and the courthouse in order to remind visitors of the tumult accompanying this nation's emergence.What to see and do. You can easily tour this site in a few hours. At the visitor center, open from 9 AM until 5 PM daily except holidays, you can see a video about the site's historical importance. Interesting exhibits of handcuffs, leg irons, and guns attest to decades of life spent on the edge of lawlessness. Take a walking tour of the courthouse (where the visitor center is), being sure to see the dank jail in the basement. Before Judge Parker and several citizens demanded that a new jail be built, this small place housed as many as 150 criminals at one time, earning the moniker "Hell on the Border." The old commissary and excavated foundation of the first fort round out your picture of what life was like over a century ago. Don't miss the reproduction of the gallows, to which "Hanging" Judge Parker sent 79 hardened murderers and rapists during his tenure. All buildings are wheelchair accessible. Because summers can be hot and humid, it's recommended that you visit during the spring or fall. Leashed pets are permitted.
Hot Springs National Park
PO Box 1860 Hot Springs National Park, AR 71902 Phone: 501-624-3383 Fax: 501-624-1536
Overview. By the time DeSoto and his troops arrived in what is now Arkansas in 1541, Native Americans were perhaps already "taking the waters" at these thermal springs. Caddo, Quapaw, and Choctaw were among those present. After the U.S. acquired the land in the Louisiana Purchase, pioneers settled this area in the Zig Zag Range of the Ouachita Mountains. Word of the therapeutic hot springs (at 143 degrees Fahrenheit, the water is laden with minerals) attracted a steady stream of visitors. Bathhouses were built at the foot of Hot Springs Mountain, where 47 springs flow to the surface at a rate of 850,000 gallons a day. The city of Hot Springs grew and prospered by the spa trade, and on April 20, 1832 the area was set aside as a national reserve to protect the thermal springs, predating the advent of the National Park Service. Hot Springs became the nation's 18th national park in 1921. By the 1960s, therapeutic bathing had been replaced by more advanced technologies in the treatment of arthritis and other ailments, and the opulent establishments along Bathhouse Row began to close and fall into disrepair. Today, only the Buckstaff operates as a traditional bathhouse along this historic stretch of Central Avenue. In the 1980s, local concerns and the National Park Service joined forces to restore this area to its former glory. The Fordyce Bathhouse reopened in 1989 after extensive renovation returned its elegant splendor. It now serves as the visitor center for the park. In addition to historic Bathhouse Row, Hot Springs National Park also encompasses much of Sugarloaf, Music, West, North, Hot Springs, and Indian Mountains, providing plenty of hiking trails, flowering trees and forests, and mountain views to satisfy those who want to take in the fresh air and scenery as well as the healthful waters. What to see and do. Stop by the National Park Visitor Center in the Fordyce Bathhouse to see the opulent bathing facilities that visitors during the 1920s came to expect when they "took the waters." Marble, mosaic tile, and stained glass adorn the three-story bathhouse, which is furnished with original tubs, steam cabinets, and therapy machines from the era. Video and film presentations introduce you to the park and to the rituals of therapeutic bathing. If your interest is piqued, the Buckstaff Bathhouse just down the row offers a full range of bathing services including steam rooms and massage. Then, stroll along the Grand Promenade, a landscaped brick lane behind Bathhouse Row. You'll pass by cascading hot spring water on your way to the Tufa Terrace Trail that leads you to several more secluded springs, along with others downtown. Take in a sweeping 360 degree view of the city, nearby lakes, and the Ouachita Mountains from the 216-foot observation tower atop Hot Springs Mountain. There are two scenic drives through the park or, if you'd rather get out and walk, you can take your pick of over 25 miles of hiking trails. Picnic areas are located throughout the park. The Gulpha Gorge Campground provides 42 first-come, first-served campsites; there are no hookups available. Ample hotel accommodations and restaurants are available in the city of Hot Springs. The National Park Visitor Center in the Fordyce Bathhouse is open daily from 9 AM to 5 PM. It is closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's Day. The park sponsors a Volksmarsch, or People's March, annually in conjunction with the community's Oktoberfest celebration. Rangers give talks and lead walking tours during the summer months. A Junior Ranger program is available for children. Check at the Visitor Center for more detailed information. The city of Hot Springs and its surrounding area offer a host of additional activities, from art gallery walks to horse racing at popular Oaklawn Park racetrack.
Pea Ridge National Military Park
Address: 15930 Hwy 62 E PO Box 700 Pea Ridge, AR 72751 Phone: 501-451-8122 Fax: 501-451-8635
Overview. This 4,300-acre battlefield park commemorates a decisive Civil War battle in which Union and Confederate soldiers fought for control of Missouri. The fighting, which took place in March of 1862, ended with a Union victory. Much of the battle took place near Elkhorn Tavern, a reconstruction of which exists as part of the exhibit. Union soldiers were deployed to block Confederate movement toward St. Louis. Several mishaps and hardships encountered by Confederate soldiers contributed to their loss of the battle, including difficulty in traveling and a supply train that never arrived. What to see and do. Open daily from 8 AM to 5 PM (tour road closes at 4:30 PM), the visitor center offers Civil War museum exhibits and a slide program. Civil War buffs can take a self-guided auto tour of the battlefield, or visit Elkhorn Tavern, which is open from 10 AM to 4 PM, May through October. You can also enjoy the scenery along a 10-mile hiking trail or an 11-mile horse trail. The park does not supply or rent horses. When visitation and staffing allow, park rangers are available to give talks about the site's history. The national military park is located 10 miles north of the town of Rogers on Hwy 62. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's; also closed on icy/snowy weather days. Leashed pets are permitted.
Trail of Tears National Historic Trail
Address: 1100 N University Suite 133 Trail of Tears Association Little Rock, AR 72207 Phone: 501-666-9032
Overview. In the early 19th century, a burgeoning American population was clamoring for more land in the east, while Spain and England, with their extensive land holdings in the western portion of North America, were perceived as a threat by the still-young United States government. Thomas Jefferson proposed the creation of a buffer zone west of the Mississippi River to be inhabited by eastern American Indians. This scheme would allow the country to expand as far as the Mississippi into lands then held by these eastern tribes, while providing a populated stretch of land between the new nation and the European powers to the west. Between 1816 and 1840, the eastern tribes signed more than 40 treaties ceding their land to the U.S. Andrew Jackson, in his 1829 inaugural address, expressed his intention to relocate these tribes, including the Choctaw, Chickasaw, Seminole, Creek, and Cherokee. In 1830, Congress passed the Indian Removal Act. In a forced migration that spanned over 1,000 miles and took the better part of a year, the U.S. Army removed over 15,000 Cherokees from their ancestral homeland in the southeast to Indian Territory in what is now Oklahoma. Held through the summer of 1838 in concentration camps, the Cherokee were then compelled to travel west along several different routes to their new "home" west of the Mississippi River. The way was hard and the weather harsh. Before they reached their destination in spring of 1839, thousands had perished along the route. Although the Trail of Tears is associated primarily with the Cherokee, it symbolizes the systematic removal of many eastern tribes from their ancestral lands to Indian Territory. Between 1830 and 1850, around 100,000 American Indians living between Michigan and Florida were either coerced or forced, sometimes brutally, sometimes even in chains, to move west. In 1987, Congress designated two of the major Cherokee paths west, a 1,226-mile water route and 993 miles of overland routes, as Trail of Tears National Historic Trail. The water route begins in downtown Chattanooga, TN, at Ross's Landing on the Tennessee River, and follows the Ohio, Mississippi, and Arkansas Rivers to the trail's end due south of Tahlequah, OK. The overland portion begins near Cleveland, TN, and passes through Kentucky, Illinois, Missouri, and Arkansas on its way to Tahlequah, OK, the official end of the trail. An auto tour route is marked by signs bearing the official Trail of Tears National Historic Trail logo in both directions on the overland route. What to see and do. The trail is still under development, but currently you can visit National Park Service certified interpretive sites associated with the trail. They include the Museum of the Cherokee Indian in Cherokee, NC, Red Clay State Historic Area in Tennessee, Trail of Tears Park in Hopkinsville, KY, the Vann House and the New Echota State Historic Site in Georgia, Missouri's Trail of Tears State Park and, at the end of the trail, Cherokee Heritage Center in Tahlequah, OK. For more information, contact the Trail of Tears Association in Little Rock, AR, or the National Park Service Long Distance Trails Group Office, PO Box 728, Santa Fe, NM 87505; phone: 505-988-6888.
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