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Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area
PO Box 7458
Fort Smith, MT 59035-7458
Phone: 406-666-2412 or 307-548-2251
Fax: 406-666-2415
Overview. Until the Yellowtail Dam tamed the Bighorn River in the mid 1960s, the stream that cut its way through the limestone between the Pryor and Bighorn Mountains was far too wild to navigate. From the time of the first hunter-gatherers who sheltered in nearby caves as early as 10,000 years ago, to the trappers, traders, and mountain men who sought a short-cut to the west, the river could only be forded north of the canyon. The Crow, whose reservation surrounds the northern portion of the recreation area, tapped the river's bounty in 1904 when they built an irrigation system north of the current dam site. In 1965, its power was harnessed with the building of the Yellowtail Dam, named for Robert Yellowtail, a former tribal chairman and superintendent of the Crow Reservation. The dam created the Bighorn Lake, which passes through the 50-mile-long Bighorn Canyon, flanked on either side by sheer limestone cliffs. In addition to being a popular site for fishing and water sports, the Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area provides habitat for over 200 species of birds and a wide variety of animals and plants that range through several climate systems: from semi-arid to alpine to short grass prairie, once prime rangeland for American bison. The land directly west of the canyon and south of the Crow Reservation has been set aside as Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range to protect the herd of 120 wild horses that run there.What to see and do. Bighorn Lake spans the boundary between Wyoming and Montana. No road traverses the park from north to south, so plan your trip to arrive either in the north unit (Montana) or the south unit (Wyoming). Both approaches have visitor centers with exhibits concerning the history of the park and its recreational opportunities. Both units of the park offer camping, boating, fishing, swimming, and waterskiing. The Bighorn Visitor Center in Lovell, WY, a few miles south and west of the southern entrance, offers an orientation film and exhibits about the natural history of the canyon. Ranger-led activities are often available; check at the visitor center for information. During the summer, a lifeguard is on duty at Ok-A-Beh and Horseshoe Bend; each area has a marina and food service. Camp here or at Barry's Landing, farther north. Those with horses, contact the visitor center for horse-camping information. In winter, Horseshoe Bend is known for its ice fishing. Drive to Devil Canyon Overlook for a spectacular view of Bighorn's precipitous limestone walls. If you are entering the park from the north, stop by the Yellowtail Visitor Center, two miles beyond Fort Smith, MT, at the Yellowtail Dam. In addition to park information, exhibits here introduce you to Crow culture and the history of the 525-foot-high Yellowtail Dam. During the summer, the National Park Service conducts tours at the dam; details are available at the visitor center. Historic Fort C.F. Smith is located on private land near the park. This and several other nearby forts protected travelers along the Bozeman Trail, which was subject to Sioux and Cheyenne attacks in the mid-1800s. Ok-A-Beh marina provides food service, gas, and a boat launch above the dam. Afterbay Campground, located one mile below the dam, operates on a first-come, first-served basis. There are no hookups, but water and restrooms are provided. Of the 184 campsites in the entire park, 19 are tent sites, 14 of which are only accessible by boat. Lodging, supplies, and additional campgrounds are available in Fort Smith and Hardin, MT, and in Lovell, WY. The Crow Reservation surrounds the northern portion of the park; please do not trespass on this private land. Pets: Leashed pets are permitted but not on beaches. Fees: A nominal day-use fee is charged per vehicle.
Big Hole National Battlefield
Address: Hwy 43 PO Box 237
Wisdom, MT 59761-0237
Phone: 406-689-3155
Fax: 406-689-3151
Overview. Hoping to escape the constraints of the newly formed reservation system and join forces with the Crow Indians in Montana, Chief Joseph led a band of Nez Perce east from Idaho in August of 1877. Colonel John Gibbon and the Seventh Infantry had other plans, though. They tracked the Nez Perce through the Bitterroot Valley and into the Big Hole area, falling upon the Indian camp while the tribe slept. The Nez Perce fought valiantly; US casualties were initially high, but when the dust of the battle settled the Nez Perce had suffered a greater loss. More than half of the Indian dead were women, children, and the elderly. Chief Joseph surrendered 57 days later near the Canadian border.
What to see and do. There is a small museum at the visitor center with artifacts from the battle and the Indian encampment on display. There are scheduled audiovisual programs and interactive demonstrations at the visitor center, as well. Ranger led tours are offered twice a day to the soldier and Nez perce camps during the summer. Self-guiding brochures are also available that lead you through the 655 acre battlefield. There are picnic areas at the park, and fishing is allowed with a Montana fishing license. All state regulations apply. Camping is available ten miles west of the Big Hole National Battlefield at the U.S. Forest Service's May Creek Campground.
The visitor center is open from 9am to 5pm daily, but hours may vary in the summer. The battlefield is located in southwest Montana, about ten miles west of Wisdom.
Seasonal Alert. The road to the battle area is closed with the first snow of the season.
Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park
Address: PO Box 128
West Glacier, MT 59936
Phone: 406-888-7800
Overview. Straddling the international border between Montana, U.S.A. and Alberta, Canada, Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park protects some of the most stunning mountain scenery in western North America. Throughout the ice ages, the monumental movement of glaciers carved sharp peaks out of the Continental Divide and gouged deep valleys where hundreds of lakes now glisten. Though not of ice-age origin, today more than 30 glaciers grace this stretch of the Rocky Mountains. A haven for a wide variety of flora and fauna, Waterton-Glacier boasts more than 1,800 plant species, over 260 species of birds, and at least 60 native mammal species. White mountain goats are often seen within the parks, and hikers also may catch glimpses of coyotes, marmots, moose, bighorn sheep, and grizzly bears.
Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park was established in 1932. The first park of its kind, Waterton-Glacier is a cooperative effort of the U.S. National Park Service and Parks Canada. Although the two nations work together in certain areas, such as wildlife management and coordination of some visitor services, Waterton-Glacier is actually two parks, administered separately by each respective government. Waterton Lakes National Park was established by Canada in 1895, while Glacier National Park was designated a United States National Park in 1910.
To contact Glacier National Park, write Glacier National Park, West Glacier, MT 59936. To contact Waterton Lakes National Park, write Waterton Park, AB, T0K 2M0, call 403-859-2224 or 403-859-5109, or FAX 403-859-2650.
What to see and do. Park highways, such as Going-to-the-Sun Road, Chief Mountain International Highway, Akamina Parkway, and Red Rock Parkway bring motorists into the heart of the mountains, but keep in mind that these are rugged roads and not super-highways. Vehicles that exceed 21 feet in length (including bumpers) and 8 feet in width (including mirrors) are not permitted to drive the steepest parts of the Going-to-the-Sun Road; Glacier Park, Inc. and Sun Tours, concessionaires, provide guided tours to those unable (or unwilling) to negotiate this narrow, winding highway. Other undeveloped roads lead farther into the backcountry.
If you have time and stamina, the best way to experience the beauty, scale, and power of the mountains is to hike them. There are more than 700 miles of trails available to park visitors, ranging from short, relatively easy nature paths to long, difficult mountain treks. Both parks offer a variety of ranger- or interpreter-led hikes and presentations to enhance your understanding and enjoyment.
Both parks experience their heaviest visitation during the summer, and an extensive schedule of interpretive programs is in place for the months of June through September. Campgrounds contain just over 1000 campsites. Most are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Advance reservations are available at Fish Creek and St. Mary campgrounds and may be reserved through a central reservation system (800-365-2267).
Many of the glacier-fed lakes within the park are open to swimming and boating. The average temperature for park lakes is 45 degrees Fahrenheit year-round. Canoes and rowboats are allowed on many of the larger lakes, while motorboats are restricted to Upper and Middle Waterton Lake, St. Mary Lake, Bowman Lake, Lake McDonald, Two Medicine Lake, and Sherburne Lake. Waterton Lake, Cameron Lake, and Crandell Lake are among the many lakes and streams where trout abound. Several outfitters offer rafting trips along the pristine drainage of the Flathead River; consult the parks for more detailed information. Horseback riding and bicycling are popular summer pastimes, and tennis courts and an 18-hole golf course are located at Waterton, Alberta.
Although summer is the most popular season at Waterton-Glacier, a number of visitors opt to experience the parks in the off-season, when crowds decrease. Each season brings an ever-changing panorama to the mountains, from the profusion of spring and autumn wildflowers to the beautiful cloak of winter snow. Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are popular park activities in winter. Both parks are open year-round, although park services are limited in the off-season. Snow closes many park roads and trails from October through mid-May, with some remaining snowbound through June and beyond. Winter visitors will find plenty of services in nearby communities.
Glacier National Park
Address: P.O. Box 120
West Glacier, MT 59936
Phone: 406-888-7800
Overview. Threaded by the Trans-Canada Highway and capped by over 400 glaciers, this national park offers scenic views of craggy peaks that compete with its Rocky Mountain neighbors to the east. This 521-square mile (1,350-square km) park features the glacier-scoured jagged upthrusts of the Selkirk and Purcell ranges of the Columbia Mountains. These seem to puncture moisture-laden clouds as they pass over, resulting in the heavy precipitation characteristic of the area. Expect rain or snow in Glacier, and enjoy the incredible views when the sun does shine. In 1881 Major Rogers first discovered a pass through the mountains when working for the Canadian Pacific railroad. After constant avalanche damage forced the railroad to tunnel underneath the mountains, visitor traffic thinned considerably. But in 1962 the Trans-Canada Highway opened, bringing tourists back to this remote high-country area protected by the world's largest mobile avalanche-control system. What to see and do. Many visitors enjoy driving through the park and stopping at one of the several scenic picnic areas dotting the roadside. About halfway through the park you find the Rogers Pass Visitor Center. Open from 8 AM until 8:30 PM starting mid-June to early October (from 9 AM to 5 PM winters), the center features several informative videos. Don't miss the theater presentation of "Snow Wars," which documents how staff control the avalanches with strategically placed howitzer strikes. Consider participating in a guided walk examining glaciers, wildlife, and the park's flowers. Back on the road, watch the surrounding vegetation change from lush lodgepole, cedar, and hemlock forest to subalpine fir cover to broad tundra as you drive up and over the pass. Keep your eyes peeled for eagles overhead. If you'd like to deepen your investigation of the park, pick up trail maps and the crucial hikers' guidebook Footloose in the Columbias. Glacier offers several shorter trails, including the 30-minute Abandoned Rails Trail, which follows old railroad beds. Two trails lead to the foot of the enormous Illecillewaet Glacier, a sight that will last a lifetime. Altogether, the 14 trails cover about 88 miles (140 km) of ground. Overnight backpacking is permitted with registration at the visitor center. Otherwise, two campgrounds offer basic services such as flush toilets and firewood. All camping is first-come, first-served. A short trail starts at Loop Brook campground, while the seven major trails start at Illecillewaet Campground. While out on the trails, keep your noisemakers busy so the park's resident grizzlies know you're coming. The pamphlet "Keep the Wild in Wildlife" prepares you for unexpected encounters. Take a hike out on the 13-mile (20 km) Beaver River Trail and watch out for moose. However you choose to see the park up close, expect to get wet, for it rains or snows three of every five days. There is one extensive cave system with access by permit for experienced cavers. Winter visitors find some of North America's best deep powder ski-touring at Rogers Pass and winter camping at Illecillewaet Campground. A Best Western lodge offers more comfortable surroundings. Pets: Leashed pets are allowed. Restrictions and fees: A nominal entrance fee is charged. Alcohol is not permitted.
Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument
Address: PO Box 39 Interstate 90 at Highway 212
Crow Agency, MT 59022
Phone: 406-638-2621
Fax: 406-638-2623
Overview. This historic battlefield, the site of "Custer's Last Stand," is located along the banks of the Little Bighorn River on the Crow Reservation in Montana. Historians say that what really happened here at the Battle of the Little Bighorn will always be a mystery. So far as the historical record allows us to know, Custer and the more than 200 soldiers in his regiment died on June 25 and 26, 1876. Records were pieced together from the testimony of Native Americans who fought in the battle and those among Custer's subordinates who had not been part of the fighting.
In defense of their territory, Lakota, Cheyenne, and Arapaho warriors were protecting their homes and families from encroaching white settlers during the first several months of 1876. Custer and his cavalry were ordered to locate these Plains tribes and drive them back onto the reservation. However, when he arrived with his troops, he was surprised by the fighting force of the warriors. This was the last major victory by Native Americans over the U.S. Army. On June 27, 1876, the army sent reinforcements in and forced the tribes westward.
What to see and do. A visitor center, which features interpretive exhibits and programs, is open from 8 AM to 7:30 PM, Memorial Day through Labor Day; until 4:30 PM in winter; and until 6 PM in fall and spring. Monument grounds are open until 9 PM daily. You can take a one-hour guided bus tour for a small fee. During the summer, tours leave five times daily from the center. Rangers are on hand to give talks about the history of the site and the Plains tribes. The reservation holds an annual tribal celebration the third weekend in August, which includes a craft fair, traditional dancing, and a rodeo. No pets are permitted here, and an alcohol ban is enforced. Billings, MT and Sheridan, WY are the nearest cities, between 65 and 70 miles away. Take I-90 to Exit 510 ( US 212). Follow US 212 approximately one-half mile to the site.
Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Site
Address: PO Box 790 Interstate 90
Deer Lodge, MT 59722-0790
Phone: 406-846-2070 or 406-846-3388
Fax: 406-846-3962
Overview. In the second half of the nineteenth century, western plains cattle ranching was, literally, a huge business. Johnny Grant sold his ranch to German immigrant Conrad Kohrs in 1866. At its peak, the 30,000-acre ranch was headquarters of a ten million-acre cattle empire scattered over four states and two Canadian provinces. Today this park covers 1,500 acres and 88 structures that span the evolving cattle industry. What to see and do. Divide your visit between the several ranch buildings and the ranch house. If you'd like to tour the original house, stop by the visitor center to reserve your spot in the ranger-led tour. Cattle ranching could be a lucrative business, as the house's 23 rooms and luxurious furnishings amply prove. After you've seen the house, experience ranch life by walking through buildings like the cowboys' bunkhouses, the Draft Horse Barn, and the Blacksmith Shop (these last two have ramps). During summertime, be sure to taste chuckwagon cooking and watch other demonstrations of typical ranch activities. Call ahead for exact schedules because staffing is variable. Kids from 8 to 13 years will enjoy a Junior Rancher program. Throughout this working ranch you'll see typical livestock: shorthorn and longhorn cattle, draft horses, and poultry. Over the second weekend in July the park celebrates ranching heritage with Western Heritage Days. Be sure to inquire ahead of time about special programs. The park is always open from 9 AM until 4:30 PM, with extended summer hours. Picnicking is not allowed on-site, but the rangers will direct picnickers to a nearby city park. Pets are not permitted. Handicapped-accessible facilities are available. The park is located off I-90, at the north end of Deer Lodge.
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