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Big Bend National Park
PO Box 129 Hwy 385 S
Big Bend National Park, TX 79834
Phone: 915-432-2251
Fax: 915-432-2357
Overview. At first glance, the Chihuahuan Desert, which straddles the southwestern border of Texas and extends deep into Mexico, is a forbidding place with its volcanic peaks and arid, open grasslands. But take a closer look, especially after a spring rain, and you'll be treated to a symphony of colorful desert flowers in bloom and the comings and goings of coyote, roadrunners, peregrine falcon, and even white-tailed deer.
The eclectic landscape of Big Bend National Park supports seemingly contrasting species of plants and animals. Yucca, claret cup cactus, and prickly pear thrive in the desert, while green, leafy shrubs, such as evergreen sumac, and oak and pine trees enjoy a cooler, wetter climate in the surrounding Chisos Mountains. The tenacious Rio Grande--tenacious because its waters have survived desert floor heat upwards of 180 degrees--forms much of the park's southern boundary and is home to the garfish and several species of turtles, the living remnants of land that was once swamp and savannah.
Silt and sand abrasives flowing within river waters helped to carve out the deep canyons and gorges that characterize much of Chihuahuan desert terrain. A canoe trip along the park's waterways offers an up-close look at the colorful striations in canyon walls that help geologists to mark time and history.
What to see and do. A full spectrum of activities awaits visitors. You can go hiking along any number of nature trails or ride the open plains on horseback (there are horse rentals available ouside the park's western boundary and a free permit is required). There are also opportunities for wildlife and bird watching, camping, and fishing. Whatever your interests, a one-day trip is not recommended, simply because the area is so vast. Several days are necessary if you want to fully experience the park.
If you're planning to spend most of your time hiking, be prepared. Bring plenty of bottled water (spring water must be treated or boiled), and be sure to pick up a topographic map at a park visitor center. The level of difficulty varies from a short stroll to more strenuous uphill treks.
For an easier time, take a walk along the Rio Grande Village Nature Trail, which leads through lush vegetation up to an overlook. It's a little less than a mile round trip. Other easy hiking can be found at trails in Tuff Canyon and Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff.
If you want a slightly longer route that can be explored in one day, try the Chimney and Pine Canyon trails; both are about four or five miles round-trip. The Pine Canyon Trail is notable for a 80-foot waterfall that is active after summer storms, while rock formations and petroglyphs characterize the Chimney Trail.
Serious hikers shouldn't miss the 13-mile round-trip hike to the South Rim, a 7,400-foot-high canyon bluff that provides a spectacular, panoramic view of the surrounding desert. Along the way you'll want to stop and explore Boot Canyon and its forest of hardwood and pine trees.
If you are an experienced hiker and have a few days to spend, try Mesa de Anguila, but only during the winter months when the temperature is more moderate.
If a canoe or raft trip along the Rio Grande is your interest, contact one of several local outfitters located near the park, because there are no rental facilities on park grounds. A permit is required at no charge and is available at visitor centers and in local towns. Trips along the Santa Elena and Boquillas canyons require two to three days, and a week is necessary for a journey along the Lower Canyons.
You can camp out at one of three campgrounds, stay in an RV park, or venture into the backcountry to primitive campsites.
Alibates Flint Quarries National Monument
Address: 419 E Broadway PO Box 1460
Fritch, TX 79036
Phone: 806-857-3151
Fax: 806-857-2319
Overview. Located near the Lake Meredith National Recreation Area north of Amarillo, these quarries were mined by Native Americans for 12,000 years. Specimens of Alibates flint have surfaced hundreds of miles away, suggesting it was valuable enough to trade. Native Americans prized Alibates flint for its hardness, and today collectors admire the flint's colorful beauty. This monument preserves approximately 700 pits and some Native American ruins as well as petroglyphs.What to see and do. Sign up for a guided tour at the recreation area's Bates Canyon Information Station. You have only two chances per day for a tour because they're offered at 10 AM and 2 PM between Memorial Day and Labor Day. During the off-season, call ahead to make an appointment. Wear sturdy clothes and good shoes on your 1.5-mile hike around and through the pits. The area is undeveloped, and the knapping can be sharp, so watch your step along the way. Bring water along, for the summer sun can be hot. Some parts of the trail are steep and require some effort. In order to preserve the area, the park asks that you not pick up pieces of flint on your hike. Call ahead if handicapped access is needed.
Guadalupe Mountains National Park
HC 60, POBox 400
Salt Flat, TX 79847-9400
Phone: 915-828-3251
Overview. The Guadalupe Mountains are the remnants of a barrier reef that grew beneath the waters of an ancient sea. From a distance, the contour of this mountain range appears as a wall of rock across the desert. Up close, however, you'll find dramatically varying landscape, from sculptured canyons to sand dunes to conifer forests. It's this unique terrain that makes the park a popular spot for visitors. Human habitation in the area dates back nearly 12,000 years. Its first residents were indigenous tribes who left behind spear tips, baskets and pottery, indicating that they were hunters and gatherers and probably nomadic. For hundreds of years, Apache tribes found this to be a hospitable home because of its mountain springs and abundance of wildlife. The park is a 40-minute drive southwest of Carlsbad Caverns. Its mountain range is one of the most significant sources of Permian limestone in the world, and is a popular place of study for geologists. Because of varying topography and habitats, the park is home to hundreds of plant and bird species, 60 species of mammals, and 55 varieties of reptiles and amphibians. What to see and do. Over 80 miles of trails offer challenge and interest to all levels of hikers, although rough terrain and unpredictable weather should be considered. It can take several hours to cross trails; stop by the visitor center and pick up a trail guide or chat with personnel about conditions and other information. Day hikes include Guadalupe Peak, Bowl, El Capitan, and Pine Springs trails. At 8,749 feet, Guadalupe Peak is the highest point in Texas, and the view is spectacular on a clear day. The 8.4-mile (round trip) trail is strenuous although well-marked, and rock-climbing experience is not necessary. The Bowl Trail takes you on a "High Country" trek through conifer forest that is typical of regions several hundred miles to the north. This trail is also strenuous and is about nine miles round trip. A more moderate trail is El Capitan, which leads through Chihuahuan desert to the base of the El Capitan peak. The trip is a total of 11 miles, and you can climb up to the Salt Basin Overlook for an impressive view. The Pine Springs Trailhead is another moderately rated trail and runs parallel with the Guadalupe Peak Trail before merging with the Devil's Hall Trail. A four-mile round trip, the trail's terrain is rocky and takes you through a canyon corridor that is narrow in spots. One of the most popular visitor destinations is McKittrick Canyon. Containing the only perennial stream in the park, McKittrick blazes with color in October and November when the oaks and maples turn to brilliant reds and yellows. You can also backpack into the back country. A free use permit is required and issued in person a maximum of 24 hours before your trip. Permits are available at the Headquarters Visitor Center, where you can also pick up safety guides, maps, and information on current conditions, or participate in an orientation program. Horseback riding is a popular way to get around the park, although some trails can be difficult to negotiate. Horses are allowed for day use only, and you have to bring your own animal and food for it because the park does not offer rental services. If mountain biking is more your style, it is permitted only on park roads because of potential damage to trails and safety problems. Technical climbing is prohibited due to the instability of cliff walls. Two campgrounds, Pine Springs and Dog Canyon, accommodate tents, recreational vehicles, and visitors with special needs. Reservations are required for the group sites, and no RV hookups are provided.
Big Thicket National Preserve
Address: 3785 Milam St
Beaumont, TX 77701
Phone: 409-246-2337 or 409-839-2689
Fax: 409-839-2599
Overview. When the glaciers pushed south out of Canada, many plant and animal species migrated, eventually finding homes far south of their original locations. The glaciers left, but many creatures remained, finding their new habitats suitable. In the southeast corner of Texas, four distinct ecosystems provide diverse habitats for many relocated but now permanent residents. Eastern hardwood forests, western prairies, southwest desert, and southern coastal wetlands all converge in this rich area. Bobcats, coyotes, road runners, and wood ducks, to name only a few, live among 85 species of trees and 20 kinds of orchids. Diversity is the key word at Big Thicket, which was designated an International Biosphere Reserve in 1981.
People have long lived here, too, beginning with several Native American groups before and during the North American colonial period. Over 60 species of shrubs render the forests sometimes impenetrable. Many pioneers used this to their advantage, hiding out in forests to avoid conscription during the Civil War. Subsequent decades saw severe logging, oil drilling, and drainage activity. Today the preserve encompasses 84,550 acres of the 300,000 left over from the original 3.5-million-acre area. Divided into nine separate land units and four water corridors, the area invites investigation of a combination of ecosystems rarely found anywhere else.
What to see and do. Of the several units, you'll want to stop by Turkey Creek first. Located at the southern end of this unit, the visitor information center offers exhibits and video programs. Ask about the wheel-chair accessible boardwalk nature trails. Behind the center you'll find the self-guided Kirby Nature Trail. Hardwood and pine forest alternate with cypress slough and floodplain along your walk. One of the longer hikes in the preserve links with Kirby. Running 15 miles along Turkey Creek, this trail also features diverse habitats, some of which are suitable for backcountry camping (the only kind of camping available). Toward the northern end of this trail, don't miss the turnoff onto the Pitcher Plant nature trail. Another fully-accessible trail (though wheelchairs must access it from the road), it boasts four of the five carnivorous plants found in North America.
Through the Big Sandy Creek unit runs the 18-mile round trip horse and off-road bike trail. On this trail, which is the only one for horses or mountain bikes in the park, you'll find two kinds of forest: upland pine and floodplain characterized by basket oak and holly. If you'd like to hike in areas unmarked by trails, ask a ranger about cross-country hiking. With a compass, map and good advice, the park opens up far beyond set trail markers. Wherever you choose to hike, whether on the nine trails or backcountry, keep your eye open for wildflowers during the summer and migratory birds from mid-April to mid-May.
Several waterways are protected within the preserve. Between B.A. Steinhagen Lake in the north and the town of Beaumont in the south, the preserve includes all of the Neches River corridor. Spend some time on the water, either in a canoe or powerboat, exploring quiet reaches of the different forests and bottomlands. With a Texas license, drop a line in the water. Some hunting and trapping is allowed, but check with rangers for specific areas and regulations.
If you'd like to take a guided walk, or listen to a talk, you must make reservations beforehand. There are no regularly scheduled ranger-led programs or talks.
Rio Grande Wild and Scenic River
PO Box 129 Panther Junction, c/o Big Bend National Park
Big Bend National Park, TX 79834
Phone: 915-477-2251
Fax: 915-477-2357
Overview. For 191.2 miles after the Rio Grande leaves Big Bend National Park, it rushes through the scenic but very remote Lower Canyons. The arid landscape of the Chihuahuan Desert follows river runners as they float down this peaceful section. Until the end of the 19th century, the Rio Grande was considered impassable here in the Big Bend area. Since then, raft technology enables many visitors to enjoy the isolated splendors of this oasis in the southwest desert country.What to see and do. Rafting and canoeing are the only opportunities on this inaccessible river. Because it is under the jurisdiction of Big Bend NP, you'll want to stop by the park's visitor centers before attempting a float. Permits are required. You can pick them up at any ranger station in the area or at the Persimmon Gap Visitor Center (in Big Bend). Rangers offer invaluable advice as well as a list of essential equipment. Plan on spending at least a week on the river. There are no take-out points in the middle 83 miles between La Linda, Mexico and Dryden Crossing. There are no developed campgrounds outside Big Bend NP, so be prepared to camp in the backcountry.
Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park
PO Box 329
Johnson City, TX 78636
Phone: 830-868-7128
Fax: 830-868-7863
Overview. After John F. Kennedy's assassination, Vice-President Johnson became the 36th president. Elected in his own right in 1964, he oversaw the creation of the "Great Society," an ambitious policy of government programs, as well as the escalation of the Vietnam conflict. Already a towering figure in Texas politics, he made his mark on the nation. Located west of Austin along the Pedernales River, the park's 673 acres include his boyhood home, Johnson Settlement, and the LBJ Ranch. What to see and do. Begin your tour at the visitor center in Johnson City, which offers films and exhibits detailing Johnson's life. A block away is Johnson's boyhood home, a six-room house with period pieces that reflect the atmosphere of small-town Texas in the 1920s. A walking trail leads you to the Johnson Settlement where Johnson's grandfather built a log cabin for his family and headquartered his cattle-droving business in the late 1860s and early 1870s. Heritage skills such as spinning and dutch-oven cookery are demonstrated on site, at the cabin and at the chuck wagon, on weekends. Sometimes visitors are treated to a "typical washday," complete with homemade soap, washboards, and plenty of elbow grease. More heritage skills demonstrations are being added as funding allows. Fourteen miles west of Johnson City you'll find the Lyndon B. Johnson State and National Historical Parks, where you can board the ranger-guided bus tour of the LBJ Ranch. On your 75-minute ride, you'll go past the "Texas White House," a ranch home purchased and enlarged by the Johnsons in the 1950s. The house itself isn't open, but you can tour the reconstructed LBJ Birthplace, his resting place in the family cemetery, and the working ranch maintained by the National Park Service. Large groups (15 or more) are welcome but must make reservations in advance by calling 830-868-7128, extension 231 during business hours. The park is open daily from 8am until 5pm but is closed on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas, and New Year's Day. Handicapped-accessible facilities are available.
Amistad National Recreation Area
Address: Hwy 90 W HCR 3 Box 5J
Del Rio, TX 78840
Phone: 830-775-7491
Fax: 830-775-7299
Overview. In 1969, Mexico and the United States completed construction on the Amistad dam. Named with the Spanish word for "friendship," the six-mile long dam backs up the Rio Grande, Devils, and Pecos rivers, forming the Amistad Reservoir. Limestone bluffs characterize part of the reservoir's 850 miles of wrinkled shoreline, 540 of which are United States territory. Long before either country claimed the land, Native Americans lived here, perhaps as long as 10,000 years ago. They left behind pictographs and murals on rock faces and shelters. Today the clear blue waters attract thousands of people to this green oasis-like spot located in the dry southwest corner of Texas.What to see and do. First-time visitors should make park headquarters, located north of Del Rio on Hwy 90, their first stop for park information, maps, and a look at the bookstore. The hours are Monday through Friday from 8 AM to 5 PM, weekends and most holidays from 9 AM to 5 PM. Headquarters are closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's Day. Visitors may also drive onto the dam to see the displays in a small visitor center, and to view the lake and the commemorative markers at the international boundary. At Diablo East, one of two concessionaire-operated marinas, you can either rent a boat or put in your own and stock up on supplies. When the ranger station is staffed, you can pick up a park map and brochures on boating, fishing, camping and more. Swimmers will find three unsupervised beaches in the park, and they can swim from anchored boats and from most shorelines, as long as they're not in a harbor area. At the ranger stations and major landing areas, have a look at the wayside kiosks. They relate information about the park's archaeological importance, natural history, and boating safety. Once you're on the water, feel free to drop in a line for largemouth bass, sunfish, crappie, and other kinds of fish. Be sure to check on license requirements because some waters are Mexican and some United States territory. During daylight hours, waterskiers skim over the crystal blue surface. When you're on the Rio Grande, don't miss the pictographs at Panther and Parida caves. Reachable only by boat, when water levels allow access, these sites have docks so you can get out and investigate the rock art panels. Wayside exhibits interpret these 16-foot high paintings done in red, black, orange, and yellow. Hunting in season is permitted, but check with rangers about regulations and designated areas. Shoreline hiking is certainly possible, but there are no marked trails. You'll see a variety of wildlife because the water attracts several species, from armadillo to white-tailed deer. No passports are need to visit Ciudad Acuna, which is Del Rio's sister city located across the Rio Grande. Pets: Leashed pets are permitted. Fees: There is no entrance fee. A lake-use fee is charged for motorized boats.
Fort Davis National Historic Site
Address: PO Box 1456 Hwy 17 N
Fort Davis, TX 79734
Phone: 915-426-3224 or 915-426-3225
Fax: 915-426-3122
Overview. By 1854, the Comanche and Apache in western Texas were attacking travelers along the San Antonio-El Paso road often enough that the U.S. Army established and began construction of Fort Davis. Named after Secretary of War (and later Confederate President) Jefferson Davis, the fort was intended to protect government mail contractors, stage operators, and immigrants using the region's trails. From 1857 until 1860, the army experimented with camel transportation and sometimes used Fort Davis as a stopover during various trial expeditions. The post was abandoned at the outset of the Civil War, temporarily occupied by Confederates until 1862, and found mostly in ruins when the army returned in 1867. Reestablished by a contingent of the 9th U.S. Calvary, one of the famed African American "Buffalo Soldier" units created after the Civil War, the post served as a base for operations against groups of Apaches and Comanches. With the end of the Indian Wars, the fort closed in 1891. Today the park's restored buildings re-create the active 1880s.
What to see and do. For a couple of hours, you can relive the western Texas frontier. In a restored barracks now serving as the visitor center, inspect the museum's exhibits, enjoy a video show, and obtain an orientation to the rest of the site. This building and three others have ramps, and an electric cart is available. Outside, your self-guided tour takes you through several fully restored buildings such as an enlisted mens' barracks, officers' kitchen, and commanding officers' quarters. During summertime, the site hums with activity as costumed rangers and volunteers give talks and demonstrations at several locations around the old post. Throughout the day, historic sounds of bugle calls and a dress retreat parade fill the air and stir your imagination. After you've seen the buildings, find the trailhead behind the officer's quarters. The 1.2-mile Tall Grass Nature Trail loop leads you into the hills overlooking the 474-acre site. Cap off your visit with a picnic at the Cottonwoods picnic area.
Many special events are scheduled throughout the year, including the Friends of Fort Davis Festival in October. Call ahead for details and for group reservations. The site, open from 8am to 6pm summers (until 5pm winters), is closed Christmas.
Lake Meredith National Recreation Area
Address: 419 E Broadway PO box 1460
Fritch, TX 79036
Phone: 806-857-3151
Fax: 806-857-2319
Overview. Until the Canadian River was dammed in 1964, there were no lakes at all in the Texas panhandle. Today, Lake Meredith, a twelve-mile long lake with its many miles of shoreline of white limestone caprock, pinnacles, and wind-shaped coves, attracts water recreation enthusiasts from the entire region. What to see and do. Sailing and windsurfing are popular pastimes on Lake Meredith, thanks to the perpetual panhandle winds. Visitors enjoy swimming, scuba diving, water skiing, and all types of boating, and the lake is stocked with fish so anglers can cast for walleye, bass, perch, catfish, and a number of other species. Hunting is allowed, in season and with the proper permits, at Lake Meredith. There are eight public-use areas around the lake with boat launches and picnic tables available. A commercial marina is conveniently located in the area and provides limited boating and picnic supplies. Lake Meredith is primarily a day-use area; however, there are a number of primitive campsites available at no cost. Boaters will pay a nominal fee and a Texas state fishing license is required. Please contact the park for more information. Special events include a number of sailboat regattas. The recreation area is open 24 hours a day, year-round.
Padre Island National Seashore
PO Box 181300
Corpus Christi, TX 78418-1300
Phone: 361-949-8068 or 361-949-8173
Fax: 361-949-8023
Overview. Sandpipers pluck their way along beaches that are constantly reshaped by waves and wind on Padre Island. One of the Gulf Coast's crucial barrier islands, it bears the brunt of destructive storms and daily surf erosion that would otherwise chip away at the mainland. Sea oats anchor the dunes that form the backbone of this island stretching over 80 miles along the southern Texas coast. Already a haven for about 350 species of birds, the island was declared a national seashore "for purposes of public recreation, benefit, and inspiration." Legends of shipwrecked Spanish galleons loaded with New World treasure have long inspired exploration. Now visitors wander the beaches searching for an escape from urban life among the waving sea grasses and whispering surf of Padre.
What to see and do. Most visitor facilities are concentrated in the Malaquite Beach area, which is your first stop after entering the park. At the wheelchair accessible visitor center, open from 8:30 a.m. until 4 p.m. (extended hours to 6 p.m. during summer), look through exhibits featuring favorite sights and activities in the park. Rangers are on hand to answer questions and help you plan your stay. During summertime, take one of the very informative ranger-led beach walks. Knowing more about this ever-changing place can make your stay even more rewarding. Summertime campers can attend evening campfire programs offered by the rangers. Close by the visitor center you'll find the first-come, first-served campground, which accommodates tents and RVs. Once you've picked a spot, think about walking the three-quarter-mile self-guided nature trail. A pamphlet available at the visitor center will introduce you to dunes and grasslands as well as typical creatures living on the island. An 8.5-mile paved scenic drive extends north, and the first five miles of South Beach are suitable for driving. On the other side of the island from Malaquite, one boat launch lets you put motorboats or sailboats into Laguna Madre, the body of water between Padre and the mainland. Calm, protected waters are ideal for water skiing, sail surfing, and sailing.
South of Malaquite, you're on your own; four-wheel-drive vehicles are a must. Undeveloped, pristine beaches invite extended beach hikes, on which you'll see plenty of resident white pelicans, terns, and ghost crabs. Camping on Laguna Madre is limited to one primitive campground maintained by the park service, but otherwise you're welcome to pitch a tent almost anywhere on the Gulf shore beach. Further inland, you may glimpse coyotes or the blacktailed jackrabbit. On the Laguna Madre shore, be sure to spend some time investigating the marshes. Herons and egrets plunge their beaks into the marsh grasses to feed on small fish and crustaceans. Four-wheel-drive vehicles may cruise along the beach the length of the park, but dunes, grasslands, and tidal flats are off-limits. Fishing is excellent on either side of the island. A state license and saltwater stamp are required.
Summers are sometimes hot and always humid, but a swim quickly refreshes.
Chamizal National Memorial
Address: 800 S San Marcial
El Paso, TX 79905
Phone: 915-532-7273
Fax: 915-532-7240
Overview. This cultural center in downtown El Paso commemorates the resolution of a 100-year boundary dispute between the United States and Mexico. More than a century ago, Chamizal was cut off from Mexico when the Rio Grande changed its course between the small settlements that grew into El Paso and Ciudad Juarez. Beginning in 1895, Mexico laid formal claim to the tract, a seemingly insignificant piece of land less than three square kilometers (one square mile) in extent. But the Mexican claim spawned counterclaims by the United States, and over the years the dispute became a major impasse. The thorny problem of making a fair settlement in the Chamizal was solved by putting the Rio Grande into a concrete channel from which it can not stray. The Chamizal Treaty, signed in 1963, formalized the solution and with its demonstration of international goodwill, inspired this performing arts park. Located on 55 acres adjacent to the international border, the memorial includes a museum, art gallery, bookstore, indoor theater, and outdoor amphitheater.What to see and do. The park's entrance is off US 62 on San Marcial St. In the handicapped-accessible visitors center, stop at the information desk for updates on current events. If you're interested in art, walk through the Los Paisanos Gallery, where local and national artists show their work in exhibits that change every few weeks. In the Chamizal visitor center, view a 12-minute video about the history of the park (in English and Spanish). After becoming acquainted with the region's history, you can look at the collections of maps and surveying equipment used by the people shown in the video. By far the most exciting events take place in the 500-seat indoor theater and amphitheater. For example, in March the classic Spanish drama festival Siglo de Oro entertains crowds. Every Sunday from June through August, you can hear Music Under the Stars. All these events promote and recognize cultural sharing between the many different communities living together on the banks of the Rio Grande. All outdoor events are free and open to the public, but some indoor events may require admission. Call ahead to inquire. Across the river in Ciudad Juarez and directly adjacent to Chamizal, you'll find the Mexican companion park. Walk through 700 acres of landscaped grounds and botanical gardens.
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